When I was in DC recently, Gaia and I also saw the pandas. I’m told by locals you don’t always see the Pandas. Strange thing, this National Zoo.
Don’t take this as a criticism, but it seems that the National Zoo is built for the benefit of the animals, not so much for the benefit of the people. I think that’s great. The result is a zoo that is more about exploring a natural park and less about riding the trains. We only had a chance to see a very limited part of the zoo, so we stuck to the Asian area, expecting to see the famous pandas boxed up and on display. I mean, there’s only like 10 of them in America, so I figured it would be a “take a turn staring at the panda” line wait.
Turns out we were right. But also very wrong.
Mei Xiang and Tian Tian were, in fact boxed up. But that was only because the didn’t seem they wanted to go outside. And I don’t blame them. It was 98-degrees in the shade with some crazy high humidity that day. I had carried Gaia on my shoulders up the uphill mile-long hike from the “Zoo” Metro stop to the gates to the National Zoo. More on that later, but it shows that, I, like the pandas, were in a place to appreciate air conditioning.
But there they were: Pandas!

Sitting in a pile of bamboo leaves inside a cooled house, separated from each other and in the process of being reintroduced. Mei Xiang sat and ate several branches while we watched. As did Tian Tian. And so that was seeing the Pandas. It was special and crowded, and not a very long wait, so, overall, panda-riffic!
Here’s where we were wrong: seeing the pandas outside is not a better way to see them. From conversations with locals and others who have been to see the Pandas and not seen them because they were outside and therefor harder to spot, it turns out when the pandas are out they can escape your view if they feel so inclined. And so walking through the twisty turns and variety of paths that offer lots of angles to peak and peer into PandaLand, you have a good chance of seeing a panda, but not a panda-promise.


But the Bamboo! And the walk through the zoo! And the other rare and unusual asian animals on display! This was all great, too. Red Panda (not a panda), sloth bears (not a sloth), Asian Otters (really otters), and The Fishing Cat (sleeping not fishing). All rare and special sights to see. Gaia was particularly impressed with the Red Panda since her familiarity with it comes exclusively from the Katamari games.




Having grown up within shouting distance of the Milwaukee County Zoo, I can tell you this: Milwaukee County used to be the kind of a zoo that was about “experiencing” natural animals in their natural setting doing natural stuff. And I suppose that’s still true. Perhaps its familiarity with the Milwaukee County Zoo that makes it seem so mundane; but when you walk through the asian animals area within the National Zoo, it’s sort of like walking through a different place. You’re almost connected to the animals native places— in an idealized and safe way, don’t get me wrong. But, unlike the aging exhibits in Milwaukee, the National Zoo was, for me, as much an botanical experience as a zoological one*. Seeing the gardens, the winding trails, the beautiful bamboo, and the misty walls surrounding PandaLand are worth the price of admission.
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Speaking of the price of admission, this is truly the zoo’s greatest feature. No admission costs. Just walk right in. But the walk, oh yes, you will pay for the walk. So here’s a pro-tip for those of you who take the Metro the the National Zoo, shared with me after the fact by a zoo greeter:
Get off at Cleveland Park, not at the Woodley Park-Zoo/Adams Morgan exit on the red train. The cleveland park stop is the same distance from the zoo as the Zoo stop, but it is downhill. Then get back on the Red Train at the Zoo stop. Again, walking downhill.
*Notable exception for the Grey Wolf exhibit and recently remodeled Giraffe house in Milwaukee. And an extra asterisk in recognition of the unique challenge presented by Milwaukee’s colder climate.
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